Info on Strawberries January 29, 2007
A good friend of mine recently took a job with a company that sells strawberries dipped in chocolate and the like. He asked me for some information on strawberries, so here it is:
Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa is the type we normally eat) is a member of the rose family. Strawberries have been enjoyed since around 200BC, first by the Romans, who made strawberry soup as an aphrodesiac and used it as a medicinal herb. Native Americans were enjoying strawberries long before the colonists arrived. The colonists first planted the Hovey variety in Massachusetts in 1834. There are about 20 different varieties of strawberry worldwide, and they are indigenous to all areas except Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. The more chromosomes a variety of strawberry has, the bigger the fruit will be. Strawberries are the only fruit with the seeds on the outside. The variety that we enjoy is actually a hybrid between fragaria x virginiana (flavor) and fragaria x hypanthim (size). California is the #1 producer of strawberries but they are grown in all of the other 49 states and throughout Canada. About 700 growers produce strawberries on 20,000 acres in CA, equating to more than a billion punds of the fruit per year. The strawberry season begins in CA in January and ends in November, ripening and harvested in the Southern part of the state and moving Northward as Spring begins. One serving of strawberries (about 8 berries) has 140% of your RDA of vitamin C, and 20% of your RDA of folic acid. Strawberries are sodium free. Many strawberry growers will keep beehives near their crops as the bees help pollinate the fruits. Strawberries are usually grown commercially by the “plasticulture” method, which involves laying down black plastic and cutting holes in it for the plant. The black plastic encourages “runners” or branches that grow along the ground that can be later cut away from the plant, sown, and a new strawberry plant is the result. Strawberries plants can last about 3 years or so in the ground, but for maximum yield or harvest they are typically planted each year. If the runners are tilled or disced into the soil after harvest, the runners that have been tilled in will eventually sprout new plants. The biggest pest problems on strawberries are different types of moths that get into and destroy the fruit. Mildew also is a problem for strawberries as the fruits often lie directly on the ground before harvest. Some growers apply a “Bordeaux mixture” which is an organic copper spray that kills the mildew fungus. Many commercial growers also sterilize the soil before planting with a gas called methyl bromide. This is controversial as it kills all the bad organisms in the soil, but kills he good ones too (heck, it kills everything in the soil) This is bad as it ruins the structure of the soil over time and has the potential to eventually make the area unfit for growing anything. Straberries are delicious! Back to the redwoods and such next time. Happy gardening!
Plantman
More Drip Irrigation January 28, 2007
Today I spent about a half day installing drip irrigation to the “Aptos Blues” that I planted yesterday. It was raining really hard this afternoon so I didn’t do much more planting, just 21 new redwood cuttngs on 1 gallon cans from the cuttings left over from yesterday. Lets talk about drip irrigation again today. The drip system connects to the second irrigation valve that I installed a few weeks ago, and runs along the greenhouse wall then along the bench where the new Soquel redwoods are. I thought that it would be good to go over how the valves are wired to the clock, as this is the way that the system operates when I am not there. Each valve has a solenoid that recieves an electrical current from the clock that opens the diaphragm, letting water through when the system is to operate. The way in which this works is actually very easy. The solenoid is the black piece on top of the valve, and has two wires coming out of it that connect to the clock (you do not have to be an electrician to wire irrigation valves to the clock or timer as they are actually quite simple.) Either of the two wires can be connected to a copper strand wire that connects inside the clock according to which station number you choose to designate. Mine is wired so that station one is closest to the greenhouse wall and waters everything along the wall on the benches. Station two is wired to the second valve which controls the center set of benches toward the middle of the greenhouse, and eventually there will be more valves installed and wired to this same clock. Most homeowner clocks can control between 4 and 12 different indivdual stations, and cost between $40 and $200. The Irritrol “Rain Dial” I am using is at the higher end, and has capacity for 9 stations. I prefer this brand because of its ease in programming and reliability. Back to wiring. After the first wire is connected inside the clock to the station designation, a second wire is connected to the solenoid and then connects to the designation marked “common”. The common wire can be connected to other valves as well (hence “common”.) Keep in mind that this wiring is low voltage and will not electrocute you (although it is a good practice to shut off the electricity while wiring just to be safe.) Now that the valve is wired (one connecting inside the clock to the desired staton designation and the other to the connection marked “common”), you are ready to program the clock. Also, again keep in mind that the two wires coming out of the solenoid are interchangeable so it doesn’t matter which is wired to station and which is the common. Clock programming is easy. First set the correct date and time as given in the instructions, and then you are ready to program the three pieces of information in that the clock will need to run properly. The first is what day or days of the week do you want to irrigate. The second is what time or times of these days you would like them to run. Most clocks have the option to run more than once a day. The third is on these days and at this time(s), how long do you want the system to run. Mine is currently set to run three days a week at 9am and for 12 minutes on each station, and I will gradually increase the days, start times (ultimately 2x per day), and the number of days per week. Another thing to consider but may confuse you if you don’t have the hang of it is the “program setting.” Many clocks have an A, B, and C program capability so that separate days, starts, and run times can be set for different watering needs of the plants. Typically drip is set apart from spray as the run times are longer and less frequent. Questions on this are welcome. Check out the pictures from today! Happy gardening.
Plantman
Planting “Aptos Blue” Redwood Cuttings January 27, 2007
Today I was back in the greenhouse, this time planting cuttings of Aptos Blue redwoods. I did not have my camera with me, but I will be sure and take some photos tomorrow as I will be returning to install irrigation to the new plants. I stopped by to visit a customer today at my job (I’m a landsape construction supervisor), and I notied that there were many shoots or “suckers” sprouting from the bases of some of the redwoods on his estate. I took about 50 or so cuttings, some with hardwood and others that were a little more soft and fleshy. I then decided it would be best to buy a “rooting hormone” and some organic fertilizer with mycorrihizae in it. The rooting hormone is a liquid that contains naphthaline acetic acid (NAA) and indole-3 butyric acid (IBA) which stimulate root growth. It is diluted with water ad trhe basal end of the cutting is dipped for about 10 second in this solution just prior to planting. The mycorrihizae is a type of beneficial fungus that promotes root growth and helps roots more readily uptake nutrients and carbohydrates, often making the tree grow more quickly. It is usually sold in a powder form, mixed in organic fertilizer and “top dressed” or sprinkled over the top of the soil and watered in. Enough technical stuff. These redwoods have a bluish tinge to them which make them very popular. Soquel blue redwoods also have a bit smaller form and a bit smaller needle, so it is a good fit for a smaller scale landscape. I planted 39 of these today, with cuttings ranging in size from 12 inches to 18 inches. When taking cuttings from a redwood tree, it is best done from a tree that is no older than 30 years old as the tissue in an older tree is a bit harder and results will not typically be as successful. I’ll snap some photos tomorrow, and next blog will be more on irrigation. Happy gardening!
Plantman
Hiking for Redwood “Cuttings” January 23, 2007
Hello. Today I did some hiking near La Honda, CA to look for some more redwood sprigs (seedlings) to plant in the greenhouse. I saw a pullout off of the road and off I went, no trail, nada. This is a great way to get some hiking in, enjoy the scenery, relax, and I will definately take some pictures of this on Wed. to show what a magnificent area this is. The trick to getting sprigs that will turn into viable redwood trees is to know exactly what you are looking for and to pay attention at the bases of the trees. The sprigs normally sprout in organic matter that is piled up or on stumps of trees that were harvested in the early 1900’s through the 1950’s and have been reduced to practically sawdust. Some digging through this typically wet mush is necessary to get enough root matter with the sprig that they will grow later. I only harvest in areas where there are abundant sprigs in groups to ensure that I am not taking anything that would potentially reforest the area in the future. One of the above photos shows the sprig (typically about a foot in length with about half root and half above ground growth). You must ensure that the root is cut at a diagonal when removing so that when you replant the root has the most surface area possible for new roots to sprout. The sprig must also have what is called a “dominant leader” or “apical meristem”. If the leader is dead or damaged the tree will sprout off in three or four directions and will never grow into a tall, stately tree but a stubby short bush instead. Checking for disease is important too. If you notice that the sprig has insect damage or fungus it is best to leave it as you could potentially bring the problem into your greenhouse, and the problem could spread through the entire crop! The sprigs should be planted into nursery cans immediately as letting them sit out will dry them, and the exposure to light will damage the roots (they want only darkness!) The nursery cans should be watered and the soil saturated before planting to ensure that the soil has setteled and there are no air pockets (roots love a little oxygen but too much and they will not uptake water or nutrients properly, damaging the sprig.) Finally, after planting the nursery cans should be lightly watered again to settle the soil again and get rid of the new air pockets you created during planting. Gymnosperms (pines, redwoods,etc.) don’t really have a crown, so the plant tissue above ground will sprout needles and the below ground plant tissue will sprout roots. With this, you can plant the sprigs a little low and tissue that used to be above ground and needle growing will change and begin sprouting root growth. This has to do with light and moisture and is the tree’s machanism to ensure that it is taking water up from below (roots) and transpiring (emitting water vapor from little “pores” called stomata in the needles). Large redwood trees can uptake and transpire thousands of gallons of water every day, changing the carbon dioxide in our atmosphere into oxygen which we all know is pretty important if we want to continue living and breathing. More to come on Wednesday; questions and comments are more than welcome.
From Pescadero,
Plantman
Drip irrigation today. January 20, 2007
Today I was back in Pescadero planting more redwoods and installing drip irrigation to them. I took a few pictures to illustrate how to install drip irrigation. This is the best way to irrigate these trees as I’m not there every day to water them. The valve is connected to the clock, which is set to operate for 6 minutes every other day at 9AM. The water supply is pressurized up to the valve, which opens and closes when the clock sends a low voltage current that fires a solenoid, opening the valve and letting the water through to the drip tubing. The water is piped in through 1/2 inch black plastic hose which runs underneath the table. 1/4 inch smaller tubing is then connected to that through a small plastic fitting that snaps in (not glued) and the water flows out of the small emitter in the plastic pots at the base ofeach tree. The pictures I have taken today illustrates this. If anyone has any questions about this installation please ask. Also, the types of emitters available vary and I have chosen this type as I am using well water which tends to have a bit of sediment in it (these don’t clog but allow the sediment through) When installing a drip system most of the time you would want to also install a pressure regulator just downstraem of the valve to keep pressure low to avoid blowing the small plastic fittings off. I have pretty low pressure here already so a pressure regulator is not necessary (they also tend to clog if you have sediment in your water supply). Please write me with any comments or questions and I will field them in my next blog. Happy gardening.
Plantman
Planting redwoods and oaks today! January 18, 2007
Hi. My name is the Plantman. I am a landscaper with 17 years experience in the “green industry”. My credentials include a B.S. degree from Cal Poly S.L.O. in Environmental Horticulture, a Pest Control Advisor license (CA), Landscape Contractor’s License (CA-C27), PLANET Landscape Maintenance certification, California Certified Water Auditior certificate, wholesale nursery management, as well as commercial and residential landscape construction and maintenance experience.
If you would like to take a journey with me as I embark on a fun project to fill a fairly large greenhouse with plants and trees for eventual sale and donation, please be my guest. My methods for collecting and growing these plants will include sprig hunting, seed and cutting propagation, as well as relocation of “volunteer” plants that have emerged where they may not likely survive otherwise.
If you follow this journey, you will learn about plants and trees as I document and photograph the process each week from a beautiful small coastal town in Northern California called Pescadero.
Now for a bit of history behind the nursery where we will begin the journey. The property lies about 5 miles in from the coast and was originally my grandmother’s small wholesale potted plant nursery, supplying interesting and different plants to retail nurseries in San Francisco and the Bay Area in the 1970’s. My father then took over the business in 1982 and sold bedding annuals in gallon cans until his retirement last year. I did not end up taking over the family business but instead persued a career in landscaping, and now this nursery has empty greenhouses and fields. In visiting a few months ago I noted to myself how sad and empty this place seemed; a once bustling business now quiet and unoccupied. I began to think that this would be a great opportunity to have some fun and enjoy some tranquility from the fast pace of life by slowly bringing it back to life (albeit on a much smaller scale.)
The first thing I decided to do was to begin recycling some of the many leftover plastic cans and reusing the soil that had been dumped in piles from the plants that did not sell. This combined with a free water supply from the attached house’s well made for a perfect beginning. The photos you see are this process in the making. The water supply had to be run to the greenhouse to begin as the nursery’s tank and pump are no longer operational, and now I am installing valves and drip irrigation to connect to an irrigation clock that I had left over from a landscape project. The ideal trees to begin with then came to me. Let’s start with oaks and redwoods.
But enough about history. Log on next time to learn the process behind the collection of these samples (it involves hiking), planting, and how the drip irrigation system was installed.
Plantman
