Cuttings: Love and Patience June 30, 2007

I’ve I’ve been trying to find a little time to get back into writing regularly.  As I’ve always believed its better to do it right, and if you can’t than wait until you can.  I’m trying to free up some time, and as summer progresses this will be more possible as this is the busiest time of year for us landscapers (too bad work gets in the way of having more time to do the things you really want to do – I’m hoping someday one of my hobbies will catch on and I can get paid to do one of the things I love to do with only myself as a boss).

The redwoods and Aesculus and Oaks and Laurels are doing wonderfully.  I have recently finished installing the drip irrigation system to the whole crop.  They are rooting and my success rate so far is about 90% – good considering hardwood cuttings are sometimes hard to root.  Luckily for me I just have to weed, fertilize.  Remember organic and ALWAYS with beneficial mycorhizzae like Dr. Earth or similar products NEVER Mirical Grow or any other chemical salt; build good soil organisms and you’ll fertilize less, worry about pests less, never worry about overfertilizing or fertilizing with the wrong fertilizer ratio, and get a much better tasting crop and flowers that bloom longer – duh!  Taste and quality like people used to enjoy before the 1950’s and the ”chemical age”.   Let me step down off the soap box for a minute.

If you are ever considering doing a project like this, I’ve learned a few things so far about what redwood cuttings initially seem to like:

1.  Keep the newly planted cuttings in shade or filtered sunlight – like conditions they would naturally find under the canopy of a redwood grove.  The more sun the more compact and stout as there is less distance between nodes; conversely more shade stretches the trees.  A good balance of light is needed.

2.  Use soil that is well drained.  Any cutting will do better if the water can drain away from the plant’s crown (where stem meets root).  Put some gravel in the bottom of pots before filling with soil as a way to get better drainage.

3.  Mycorhizzae application will make trees grow at unbelieveable rates.  As explained in an earlier blog, this “fungus root” material causes symbiosis between a small fungus and the root system, causing the roots to proliferate into thousands of miles of tiny roots, leaving more sites for potential nutrient uptake.  The plant then will grow to accomodate the roots.  (This is kind of backward since normally the top growth of the plant will dictate root growth).  I cannot stress enough how much this stuff works.  Available at any green friendly nursery and sometimes added to some types of organic fertilizers, put this on any plant and watch it thrive more than had it just been fertilize.  I have redwood trees that I planted from 5 gallon size to 15 gallon size six months ago; by the end of this year the trees will be ready for 24″ boxes – unbelieveable!!!

4.  Give them some form of gentle overhead water at least once a week.  This simultates rain, and water that hits the soil from some overhead height will punch a bit of oxygen through with it into the soil (kinda like how the water is aerated near a waterfall in a stream, and fish gather there to get a little strength from oxygenation – do this to your roots).

5.  Don’t “cull” or pull out cuttings that don’t seem to be doing that well – give them some love and be patient.  I had a block of about 20 that I thought would die because I put them in a little to much sun too early and they burned and wilted – almost threw them out but instead gave them the love and now a month later 3/4 of them pulled through.

6.  Be patient.  They won’t do much of anything for a few months as they root, but as they slowly start to root you will notice new top growth in your redwoods.

I’ll be back soon and writing more often once this work thing chills a bit.  In the meanwhile, happy gardening!

Plantman

Quality Soil = Quality Food March 26, 2007

Quality soil is essential to the quality of the crop you are trying to grow.  Using biologically based fertilizers such as compost or Dr. Earth ensure that you do not burn or kill any of the microorganisms in the soil.  Regular chemical fertilizers are essentially salts and when the little critters in the soil encounter this is sucks the water out of them, killing them.  These same microorganisms are essential in processing mineral elements and converting them to forms readily available for uptake by plant roots as nutrients.  If the crop is allowed to get its nutrients this way, it can maintain proper balance among elements and microelements and you will end up with much tastier fruits and vegetables.  Now that Spring is here in the Northern Hemisphere its time to get that mycorrhizae going in the garden for good root growth, too.  Happy Gardening!

Plantman.

Outside with the Redwoods March 20, 2007

As Spring arrives tomorrow and we experience the vernal equinox, note that the sun will rise due east and set due west.  Try and experience both and take mental note of it.  Its always good to visualize this east / west orientation and remember it so that you plant crops correctly, orient greenhouses and beds correctly, garden layout on these lines, vineyards, etc.  It’s just good to know.  Although of course a compass can be used for this, actually seeing and experiencing is worthwhile. 

The redwoods in the greenhouse are beginning to root and it is getting real warm in there so I moved them all outside.  The group that is most happy and doing the best was outside already, now they all seem to be doing great.  The oaks like the heat inside the greenhouse and are growing very quickly.  I think the mycorhizzae has really helped.  The buckeye seeds are sprouting in the gallon cans and like the heat too and need water every few days; they’re really thirsty.  The redwoods are sitting on black nursery fabric, and I think this is helping the soil stay warm in the plastic pots which is beneficial to root generation.  I also have only been watering them with a mister twice a week as they are responding better when they’re a little less wet and they perk up right after a light mist is sprayed on them and stay that way for hours.  It’s really cool to experience this almost immediate response tree by tree while doing this.

In each direction there are hills around the nursery full of 100 foot tall redwoods, so these guys have plenty of inspiration and vibes from their big brothers and sisters around them.  Maybe that’s why nearly every one planted is alive and well, and hopefully my care and energies figure in there somewhere too.  Go figure I prefer it outside too.  Happy Gardening.

Plantman

Organic Methods and Balance March 12, 2007

The thought of pouring “Miracle-Gro” on plants kind of makes me cringe.  I used to be all for this kind of stuff, quick acting with good results, etc.  But I’ve seen the light!  Not only will organics work better, they will be cheaper for you to use in the long run.  Sure, buying organics will set you back a little more at the outset, but this is an investment in the long-term health of your garden or greenhouse as overall changes are made for the better for a longer period of time. 

Nature reacts when being poisoned.  It finds ways to offset things which are bad for it.  When you use chemical fertilizers for instance, you are playing with the natural balance of the soil minerals (nutrients) and all of the creatures in it.  The soil will react by changing to accomodate what you are putting on (in) it.  Once this balance is lost, the soil will need what you have put on it again and again, further changing and damaging the structure and makeup of the original soil.  Much like a drug addict, the soil will need these fixes to continue to produce.  Of course fertilizer salesman love this as they have had much of the nation’s farmland in this predicament Since the 1950’s.  Chemical applications to kill pests are much the same way.  When you use pesticides to kill insects, fungus, weeds, etc.  you are only going to get short-term results.  This is because nature is at it again, trying to counter what we’ve done by letting a few insects, fungi, weeds, etc. survive the pesticide application.  Now we have a population of pests that is reproducing with a natural resistance to what’s been applied.  Then a stronger chemical is needed, and so on.  We’re breeding super-pests that are pretty tough to control and having to use more toxic stuff to kill them. 

When you use organic or “earth-friendly” products, the idea is to create a healthy environment in your garden or greenhouse that will thrive because it is naturally in balance.  This is to say that if you use natural materials on (in) the soil like compost, mycorhizzae, meal, etc. and lightly till or aerate, you will generate a healthy population of microbes in your soil that will fix minerals (nutrients) for the plant.  In the long term this will keep the soil fertile as the abundant healthy microbes thrive in symbiosis with your plants, both perpetuating each other.  This long term soil health leads to plants which are healthier as they ingest the proper balance of macro and micronutrients (16 or so altogether).  You will thus apply less fertilizer and maintain a greener garden or greenhouse.  Also, you will find yourself spraying off a few aphids on your roses with the water hose once in a while instead of applying bug spray every few weeks.  Healthy plants naturally resist pests and disease, just like people.

Changing to these methods does take patience as results can take time, especially if your garden is used to these treatments of chemicals.  It will rebel at first and may turn sickly just as a drug-addicted person may after his chemicals have been taken away, but after a season or so it will start to align itself.  You will begin generating healthy balance of microbes in your soil, which is where it starts.  The rest is a natural chain reaction, and once this balance is found the garden will perpetuate itself much more readily and healthily with less attention needed, giving you some time to enjoy what you have helped create.

Now go find some balance.  Happy gardening.

Plantman.

Watering Your Plants Correctly March 6, 2007

It seems so simple, plants need water to live.  But it’s a little more than that…  I found the best way while working in my dad’s wholesale nursery when I was about 19.  I spent a good portion of the week during the summer just watering plants, and noticed that the best response (and I have also later found that this works with most all varieties of plants and trees) from the plants came if I waited to water them until I noticed that they were just barely starting to wilt, and then watering them just enough and never flooding them.  This is not to say you should let them get too dry either as many people do, but if you pay attention you will see a subtle change in the appearance of the leaves when it’s time to water.  The leaves will appear a tiny bit wilted, they will just barely lose “turgidity” as the cells within the leaf lose their pressure from dehydration.  It will take longer for drought tolerant plants to get to this point than a houseplant for example, but the lesson is true for most plants and trees.  You will notice a tiny bit of “sadness” (as they say in Spanish to mean this tiny bit of wilt).  Obviously the soil might be a bit dry, too.  It is okay to allow the soil dry out a little (it should never get completely dry) contrary to some people’s belief.  It should be so that you can barely feel the moisture in it (the soil will pull a little bit of moisture from your fingers and you will notice them feeling drier after a few seconds), but never soaking wet.  Think of the soil as a sponge and while watering try to keep that sponge moist but never saturated, then allow the sponge to dry to just to the point of it losing its flexibility before watering again.  When you wait for the soil to dry like this you help push the minerals or nutrients through it just a little each time you water.  With this, overwatering will push the minerals right through the root zone quickly too quickly.  The soil and the plant’s leaves will tell you when it’s time to water.  When watering within this balance you’re helping the plant as the minerals come in contact with the roots and vice-versa, with enough time for the roots to process and uptake them.  This keeps a steady flow of minerals running through the soil as well.  Also, you will help oxygenate the roots if you let them dry a bit before rehydrating which helps them grow.  Finally, watering correctly keeps the soil structure healthy for the millions of microbes and critters living within it, helping them ward off the bad guys while making nurients available to your plant’s roots in a symbiotic relationship.  With time you will get in tune with the watering needs of your plants as you notice when to water them by looking at the leaves and checking the soil.  Finding this balance will keep them healthy and happy and willing to grow and bloom and thrive for you.  Try it!  Happy Gardening!

Plantman

Identifying Spider Mite Infestation February 25, 2007

Today I’d like to talk a bit about spider mites.  Spider mites are very tiny mites that live on the underside of leaves and eat them, causing damage and necrosis to the leaves.  In the photos I have posted here you can see the damage that these little guys can do.  First off, some gardeners mistake the damage to the leaves as a sort of fungus or mildew as it can look a bit like leaf spot or powdery mildew.  If you have a spider mite infestation you will notice that the top side of the leaf appears browinsh to silverish in color with slight mottling or “little dots”.  The easiest way to check if this is truly a spider mite infestation opposed to fungus is to take a piece of white paper and place it under the leaf, shake the leaf a bit, and then check the piece of paper.  Spider mites are compelled to be on the underside of a leaf so they will immediately set off running toward the edge of the paper to get underneath it.  Another thing to check is whether or not you notice tiny spider webs on the plant.  Keep in mind that they are very small, not quite microscopic but you may need a magnifying lens to verify this.  The two most common spider mites that do damage are the red mite and two spotted mite.  The red will appear reddish in color and the spotted have two distinct dots on their backs.  Spider mites do tend to stay in place, they do not move or migrate much from where they are born unless they are “vectored”.  Vectoring means that the mites have come in contact with something that moves (you, your clothes, your pets, birds, etc. that they can hitch a ride on to get to another area) to infect another plant or area.  This means that if you have handled a plant or tree that has been infected it is best to wash your hands, change clothes, etc. before handling an uninfected plant.  Most infestations begin in late spring and continue on until the end of summer as they prefer warm to hot conditions.  In winter thay will usually “overwinter” in grassy areas where they can stay warm.  They also like indoor plants and plants in greenhouses during winter because those conditions are usually warmer.  That seems to be the case with the few plants in and around the greenhouse that have been infected (see photos above).  If the infestation is slight, a good blast of water on the underside of the leaves may work.  Heavier infestations can be controlled with Safer Soap, a non-toxic soap treatment.  If you are going to use Safer Soap to control your infestation I would suggest that you try it on a few leaves of one plant to make sure it is not “phytotoxic” (i.e. won’t burn or kill the plant that you are treating).  Application of Safer Soap must be done to the underside of the leaves as it kills on contact.  Treatment also must be applied more than once, preferably 3 treatments 5 days apart as the soap kills the mites but not their eggs (their life cycle is only about 10 days).  If this does not work and you absolutely have exhausted all other methods, applications of pesticides such as Orthene or Avid can be used.  Keep in mind that pesticides are only a short-term solution because if you continually use them the spider mites will become tolerant, and further applications will no longer kill the spider mites.  Another solution is to use predatory mites, which can be purchased at a garden supply shop or farm supply shop.  The predatory mites will eat the spider mites without infesting your plants and is a much better alternative to pesticide use.  Also, if you are going to use predatory mites it is best to use them at the first onset of spider mites before they have done much damage.  A final method to limit the spread of the spider mites is to “quarantine” infected plants while you are treating them, which is what I’ve done.  I noticed a few oaks and redwoods with a minimal infestation in my greenhouse and immediately moved them outside and away from the greenhouse while I’m treating them; now they are much less likely to infect the rest of my plants and trees.  After I’m sure the infestation is gone I will move the previously infected plants back into the greenhouse.  Questions are more than welcome.  Happy Gardening!

Plantman

Get In Touch With Your Plants February 20, 2007

Today I was back in the greenhouse planting more redwoods and installing drip irrigation to them.  I went just outside La Honda CA to do a little hike and see if I could find some good specimens to take cuttings from.  I found just what I was looking for.  I took about 20 cuttings from the base of a fairly young redwood.  This growth at the base of the redwood trees is called “burlwood.”  I filled 20 / 5 gallon cans with recycled soil that was dumped a year or so ago with plants that didn’t sell from my dad’s nursery.  This soil is perfect because it has been sitting long enough to have composted fairly well.  This is perfect because the soil has had a chance to blend a bit with the native soil in the area (which is very sandy and drains well), and the little critters in the soil have had time to do their thing.  The essential elements that plants need are nitrogen, phosporous, and potassium as well as 13 other elements which are required in trace amounts.  Well composted soil is great because the microbes in the soil have had a chance to process these elements into forms available for uptake by the roots of the trees.  For example, plants will not take up pure phosporous, it has to be in the form P2O5 to be available.  The same goes for potassium.  Pure K (potassium) will not do the trick, the plant or tree needs it in the form K2O.  Nitrogen is similar as it needs to be “fixed”  for uptake through the “nitrogen cycle.”   The plant itself can also do a bit of its own alchemy in that it can take elements and turn them into other elements by taking electrons and moving them around to create the nutrients it needs.  This is a very basic explanation as the processes are much more complicated than that, but it gives you an idea of how important the microbes in the soil are. 

Now to get off the beaten path for a minute.  There is much more to growing plants and trees than just water and fertilizer.  I firmly believe that plants can actually feel the energy and presence of the person working with them, and this explains why some people have a “green thumb” and others do not.  There are energies and vibrations that a person gives off and plants are very sensitive to this.  Some people may think I’m a bit weird or crazy, but I can actually feel this energy and vibration exchange when working with plants.  Some people may think I’m a bit off also because I play certain music when I’m working in the greenhouse. We all know that plants don’t have ears, but I will argue that they do sense the vibrations of the music and the energy and vibrations you unintentionally give off.  To get optimum results with your plants you must be in harmony with them because they are much more alive and sentient than you think!  The next time you are gardening try and tap into this energy.  Clear your mind of other thoughts and focus only on your plants as if you were practicing yoga.  Imagine how you would want them to look and flower and grow, send postive thoughts to them, and let them feel your love as you tap in to their energy and the vibration exchange.  I feel the exchange as I do this and I am able to get results with plants that many other people cannot.  I guarantee you that if you are able to tap into this energy you will get better results with your plants as well.  I can actually see the redwoods perking up when I am around them.   I can feel the energy after only a short while working in the greenhouse each time I visit.  This is one occasion where the power of positive thinking will show results almost immediately.  Try it the next time you are working in your garden and not only will your plants do better but you will feel better and more connected to nature!  I know that there is something to this although it is hard to explain; you will have to try it and feel it to know what I mean and you may be quite suprised at the results!

Plantman

More Drip Irrigation/Planting February 4, 2007

Yesterday I was back in the greenhouse installing more drip irrigation to the redwoods and other plants.  In the photos you can see that I have some Aesculus or “Buckeye” coming up from the seeds that I planted earlier this winter (This looks a bit like marijuana but it’s not!)  Aesculus Californica is a California native that drops seed capsules or “balls” at the end of each growing season that can be collected and planted as I have done.  The “balls” are planted into the lower third of a gallon can with soil 1/3 soil below and 2/3 soil to cover.  With a little bit of patience they sprout in a few months.  The other plant with a small leaf is a “Ligularia” that my uncle divided from a larger plant and planted into gallon cans.  Some plants that have a clumping root mass such as this can be propagated by division; this simply means the plant is divided up and replanted to get more plants.  This is a good way to propagate for homeowners as it is free and is very easy to do.  I installed drip emitters to these plants as well yesterday.  The emitters I used are a different type this time.  In the photo you can see this; the emitters that are green and black are 2 GPH.  Different colors indicate different rates of irrigation, and the green 2GPH means that the emitter will let 2 gallons of water flow through it per hour of operation.  These types of emitters are good because you can calculate exactly how much water you are using to irrigate your plants.  The downside of this type of emitter is that they can be prone to clogging if you have sediment in your water supply (which I do.)  This means that I will have to periodically check to see that they are working properly and are not clogged.  In the other photos you can see how I ran the drip tubing from table to table underneath the black plastic in the aisle.  I dug a small trench and ran the tubing through a “sleeve”, which is just a piece of pvc pipe that protects it when its stepped on.  After running the tubing through the sleeve I filled the trench with a little bit of soil to level it and then tacked the black plastic back in place.  This is also a good idea because it keeps the tubing out of sight under the table so that there is not a huge mess of tubing to contend with when working among the plants in the greenhouse.  You can see that I have also moved a few of the trees outdoors to see how well they do (sort of a test to see how much faster the trees in the greenhouse will grow as opposed to those  growing outdoors.)  I will be back in the middle of next week to check up on everything and make sure the system is operating properly.  Questions are welcome.  Happy gardening!

Plantman

More Drip Irrigation January 28, 2007

Today I spent about a half day installing drip irrigation to the “Aptos Blues” that I planted yesterday.  It was raining really hard this afternoon so I didn’t do much more planting, just 21 new redwood cuttngs on 1 gallon cans from the cuttings left over from yesterday.  Lets talk about drip irrigation again today.  The drip system connects to the second irrigation valve that I installed a few weeks ago, and runs along the greenhouse wall then along the bench where the new Soquel redwoods are.  I thought that it would be good to go over how the valves are wired to the clock, as this is the way that the system operates when I am not there.  Each valve has a solenoid that recieves an electrical current from the clock that opens the diaphragm, letting water through when the system is to operate.  The way in which this works is actually very easy.  The solenoid is the black piece on top of the valve, and has two wires coming out of it that connect to the clock (you do not have to be an electrician to wire irrigation valves to the clock or timer as they are actually quite simple.)  Either of the two wires can be connected to a copper strand wire that connects inside the clock according to which station number you choose to designate.  Mine is wired so that station one is closest to the greenhouse wall and waters everything along the wall on the benches.  Station two is wired to the second valve which controls the center set of benches toward the middle of the greenhouse, and eventually there will be more valves installed and wired to this same clock.  Most homeowner clocks can control between 4 and 12 different indivdual stations, and cost between $40 and $200.  The Irritrol “Rain Dial” I am using is at the higher end, and has capacity for 9 stations.  I prefer this brand because of its ease in programming and reliability.  Back to wiring.  After the first wire is connected inside the clock to the station designation, a second wire is connected to the solenoid and then connects to the designation marked “common”.  The common wire can be connected to other valves as well (hence “common”.)  Keep in mind that this wiring is low voltage and will not electrocute you (although it is a good practice to shut off the electricity while wiring just to be safe.)  Now that the valve is wired (one connecting inside the clock to the desired staton designation and the other to the connection marked “common”), you are ready to program the clock.  Also, again keep in mind that the two wires coming out of the solenoid are interchangeable so it doesn’t matter which is wired to station and which is the common.  Clock programming is easy.  First set the correct date and time as given in the instructions, and then you are ready to program the three pieces of information in that the clock will need to run properly.  The first is what day or days of the week do you want to irrigate.  The second is what time or times of these days you would like them to run.  Most clocks have the option to run more than once a day.  The third is on these days and at this time(s), how long do you want the system to run.  Mine is currently set to run three days a week at 9am and for 12 minutes on each station, and I will gradually increase the days, start times (ultimately 2x per day), and the number of days per week.  Another thing to consider but may confuse you if you don’t have the hang of it is the “program setting.”  Many clocks have an A, B, and C program capability so that separate days, starts, and run times can be set for different watering needs of the plants.  Typically drip is set apart from spray as the run times are longer and less frequent.  Questions on this are welcome.  Check out the pictures from today!  Happy gardening.

Plantman

Hiking for Redwood “Cuttings” January 23, 2007

Hello.  Today I did some hiking near La Honda, CA to look for some more redwood sprigs (seedlings) to plant in the greenhouse.  I saw a pullout off of the road and off I went, no trail, nada.  This is a great way to get some hiking in, enjoy the scenery, relax, and I will definately take some pictures of this on Wed. to show what a magnificent area this is.  The trick to getting sprigs that will turn into viable redwood trees is to know exactly what you are looking for and to pay attention at the bases of the trees.  The sprigs normally sprout in organic matter that is piled up or on stumps of trees that were harvested in the early 1900’s through the 1950’s and have been reduced to practically sawdust. Some digging through this typically wet mush is necessary to get enough root matter with the sprig that they will grow later.  I only harvest in areas where there are abundant sprigs in groups to ensure that I am not taking anything that would potentially reforest the area in the future.  One of the above photos shows the sprig (typically about a foot in length with about half root and half above ground growth).  You must ensure that the root is cut at a diagonal when removing so that when you replant the root has the most surface area possible for new roots to sprout.  The sprig must also have what is called a “dominant leader” or “apical meristem”.  If the leader is dead or damaged the tree will sprout off in three or four directions and will never grow into a tall, stately tree but a stubby short bush instead.  Checking for disease is important too.  If you notice that the sprig has insect damage or fungus it is best to leave it as you could potentially bring the problem into your greenhouse, and the problem could spread through the entire crop!  The sprigs should be planted into nursery cans immediately as letting them sit out will dry them, and the exposure to light will damage the roots (they want only darkness!)  The nursery cans should be watered and the soil saturated before planting to ensure that the soil has setteled and there are no air pockets (roots love a little oxygen but too much and they will not uptake water or nutrients properly, damaging the sprig.)  Finally, after planting the nursery cans should be lightly watered again to settle the soil again and get rid of the new air pockets you created during planting.  Gymnosperms (pines, redwoods,etc.) don’t really have a crown, so the plant tissue above ground will sprout needles and the below ground plant tissue will sprout roots.  With this, you can plant the sprigs a little low and tissue that used to be above ground and needle growing will change and begin sprouting root growth.  This has to do with light and moisture and is the tree’s machanism to ensure that it is taking water up from below (roots) and transpiring (emitting water vapor from little “pores” called stomata in the needles).  Large redwood trees can uptake and transpire thousands of gallons of water every day, changing the carbon dioxide in our atmosphere into oxygen which we all know is pretty important if we want to continue living and breathing.  More to come on Wednesday; questions and comments are more than welcome. 

From Pescadero,

Plantman